So our philosophy when setting up our booth at the flea market was similar to the thought process in pulling items to sell at a yard sale - anything we get for it is profit.
Now of course, that’s not strictly going to be the case. In hardline dollars and cents, there was a massive loss in the set of stereo speakers that I paid $300 for that I sold for $30. Until you figure in the fact that I paid $300 for those speakers in 1993 and hadn’t turned them on for at least a year. In the meantime, the $30 that I got for them can be immediately applied to a car payment, which all goes to our concept of snowflaking.
We chose items to sell at the flea market that we no longer use AT ALL, and no longer receive any joy of ownership from. If it’s something that we find useful even once every three months, it doesn’t get sold at the flea market. We’re looking for stuff that not only would we not miss it when it was gone, but we had forgotten we owned in the first place!
So once we selected an item, how did we figure out how to price it? We went through a series of simple steps and had a couple of rules for our pricing.
Rule #1 - Anything is worth $1.
I didn’t want to deal with change. It’s heavy, and messy to deal with. I’m looking for convenience, and there’s nothing convenient about a pocket full of change. So if we didn’t think something was worth at least $1, we put it on a section of the table that was $1 BOGO items. Realistically, my tenet of “anything is worth $1″ is pretty true, and I only mentioned the BOGO if someone seemed disinclined to pay $1 for an item. The idea is not only to make money but also to reduce clutter, so getting stuff out of the house was as important to me as getting maximum value for the item.
Rule #2 - Forget what you paid for it.
That money is gone. An you’ve gotten all the joy out of the item, or you’d still be using it or looking at it on a shelf rather than selling it at a flea market. So what you paid for it is irrelevant. It makes no difference that I paid a couple hundred bucks for an XBox. What matters is that I don’t play it anymore and someone was willing to give me $60 for it.
Rule #3 - Don’t mark anything with your final price.
There are no firm prices at a flea market. If you try to draw a hard line on pricing an item, you’re doomed. People who frequent flea markets love to haggle, and haggling is a contest. If the customer pays less for it than is on the label, they win. If they pay more for it than your bottom-line price, you both win! I frequently took half the sticker price on items, just to move them. A dollar in the hand is worth $5 on the price tag.
Rule #4 - Mark it $5 more than you’d pay for it at a flea market
That was my philosophy on a lot of things. If I’d pay $40 for something at a flea market, I marked it $50. That gave me not only a good flea market type price point, it also left me built-in haggle room.
Rule #5 - Beware of pricing things at mental sticking points.
People have different ideas of what’s a lot of money, but there are always certain things that you see consistently. $100 is a big number for a flea market item, so if you want $100 for something, you’ll get closer marking it at $95. $125 is a less scary number than $100, for some reason. I had several items marked at $45 just to avoid the $50 number. The psychology of pricing is important, because if your sticker price is too high, you won’t get the change to haggle, and that’s where you make your sale - when you talk to people.
So there are 5 rules (or tips) for pricing things at a flea market. Eventually I promise I’ll get to a breakdown of what sold and what didn’t, and why I think those things succeeded or failed.




